Modena in 10 stages

What to see in Modena? Here we propose a pleasant 10-stage walk in the heart of the city.

CHURCH OF ST. PETER APOSTLE

The first stop is the Church of St. Peter Apostle, which overlooks Via San Pietro in the south-eastern part of Modena’s historic centre. Annexed to the ancient Benedictine Abbey, it was rebuilt between 1476 and 1518. It features a splendid façade in terracotta characterised by a valuable frieze, also in terracotta, composed of sea horses intertwined with winged satyrs. The interior, divided into five naves, holds a large number of works of art created by local artists between the 15th and 16th centuries, including: the terracotta statues by Antonio Begarelli, leaning against the pillars of the nave; and the frescoes by Girolamo da Vignola, adorning the sacristy.

ALBINELLI MARKET

The second stop is the historic Albinelli Market. Located in the heart of the historic centre, more precisely between Via Albinelli, Piazza XX Settembre and Via Mondatora, it is the oldest covered market in the city (opened in 1931) and is considered among the most beautiful in Italy. Due to its historical and cultural value, it has been recognised as a monument of national interest since 1990. Here you can find all the typical products of the Modena area (tortellini, Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, etc.). Immerse yourself in its atmosphere and stock up on delicacies to take home. It also offers aperitifs and evening tasting events.

PIAZZA GRANDE

The next stop is Piazza Grande, where the heart of the city beats. Founded in the 12th century, it assumed the appellation of Grande from the second half of the 17th century. A meeting place between political and religious power, between the public and private spheres, between festive and solemn moments, it is splendidly framed: by the southern flank of the Duomo, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture that, after almost a thousand years, still manages to amaze; by the Torre Ghirlandina, one of the most beautiful bell towers in Italy and one of the symbols of Modena; and by the airy portico of the Palazzo Comunale, for centuries the seat of city power. In 1997, together with the Duomo and the Torre Ghirlandina, the square was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

MUNICIPAL VINEGAR WORKS

The Acetaia Comunale di Modena (Modena Municipal Vinegar Works) in Piazza Grande is definitely worth a visit. Created in 2003 in the attic of the Palazzo Comunale, it houses three batteries: two smaller ones of six casks each, called Secchia and Panaro, and one of ten casks named after the Ghirlandina Tower, which store the precious traditional balsamic vinegar. It also houses three large barrique casks, the 100- and 200-litre mother casks used to feed the batteries and named Rezdore, and various objects related to vinegar culture. The vinegar cellar can be visited at weekends at set times by appointment only and with a guided tour.

CATHEDRAL

For the fifth stop we stay near Piazza Grande. Along Corso Duomo is the main entrance to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo and San Geminiano, better known as Modena Cathedral. Built starting in 1099, it is the result of the joint work of architect Lanfranco and sculptor Wiligelmo. A splendid example of Romanesque art, it has been compared to a “stone book” for the extraordinary richness of its ornamentation: the numerous sculpted figures arouse interest and curiosity, even though their meaning is difficult to understand. The monumental appearance of the exterior is matched, on the inside, by an atmosphere of recollection. Among the various works housed in the cathedral are; the Bellincini Chapel by Cristoforo da Lendinara (c. 1475); Saint Sebastian between Saints Jerome and John the Baptist, panel by Dosso Dossi (1518-1522); and the Pulpit by Enrico da Campione (1322).

PALACE OF MUSEUMS

The next stop, a few minutes’ walk from the Duomo, is the majestic Palace of Museums, located in Largo Porta Sant’Agostino. Erected on the site of the former Convent of the Augustinians, the building was built between 1764 and 1771 at the behest of Duke Francesco III d’Este to a design by Pietro Termanini and was intended as a hotel for the poor. In 1788 Duke Ercole III d’Este transformed it into the Albergo delle Arti. Today it is the most important museum centre in the city. It houses: the Galleria Estense, the Biblioteca Estense Universitaria, the Museo Lapidario Estense, the Historical Archive of the Municipality of Modena, the Giuseppe Graziosi Gispoteca, the Museo Civico di Modena, the Lapidario Romano of the Civic Museum, and the Luigi Poletti Civic Library of Art and Architecture.

PIAZZA ROMA

The walk continues to Piazza Roma, one of the most beautiful and evocative squares in the city. It is overlooked by the sumptuous Palazzo Ducale, considered by art and architecture experts to be one of the most beautiful 17th century princely palaces in Europe. Once the sumptuous residence of the Este dukes, it currently houses the renowned Modena Military Academy. The square is also home to the monument to Modenese patriot Ciro Menotti, created by sculptor Cesare Sighinolfi in the 19th century. We recommend you stop here for a few minutes to enjoy the view of the square and the entertaining water games of its fountains.

FIGURINE MUSEUM

The eighth stop is the famous Figurine Museum, born from the passionate collecting work of Giuseppe Panini (founder in 1961 of the company of the same name together with his brothers Benito, Franco Cosimo and Umberto). Inaugurated on 15 December 2006, it is housed in the prestigious Palazzo Santa Margherita (Corso Canalgrande 103). It brings together, alongside the figurines proper, materials similar in technique and function: small antique prints, matchboxes, letter seals, paper money, menus, calendars, albums and many other materials. The exhibition room is divided into six sections: The antecedents, Chromolithography, The birth and spread, The Liebig, Not just figurines and The modern figurine. The museum also hosts exhibitions and events that tell the story of the figurine and its descendants from a contemporary perspective.

PAVAROTTI-FRENI MUNICIPAL THEATRE

Less than one hundred metres from the Figurine Museum, at Via del Teatro 8, is the Pavarotti-Freni Municipal Theatre, which pays tribute to the two world-famous artists (Luciano Pavarotti and Mirella Freni) who contributed substantially to making Modena an essential reference point for opera and its tradition. Inaugurated on 2 October 1841, it was designed by Francesco Vandelli, architect to the court of Duke Francesco IV of Modena. Every year it presents a rich programme of opera performances, concerts and ballets, open to new musical and visual languages. The theatre gives the public the opportunity to discover its secrets, history, production spaces and architecture, thanks to a calendar of guided tours with compulsory booking.

MEF – ENZO FERRARI MUSEUM

Finally, the last stop is the MEF – Enzo Ferrari Museum, which is worth a visit even if you are not a motoring enthusiast. Located in Via Paolo Ferrari, it is not just a museum but an engaging and exciting spectacle. In the futuristic bonnet-shaped pavilion (designed by the ingenious architect Jan Kaplicky), in addition to admiring the many cars on display as works of art, you can watch a captivating film that tells the magical story of Enzo Ferrari’s 90 years of life. Next to the pavilion is the historic workshop of Alfredo Ferrari, Enzo’s father, where an exhibition of the custom-built cars made by Ferrari and customised in close collaboration with the lawyer Gianni Agnelli is on display.

Photos Church of St. Peter the Apostle © Luca Bergonzini | Albinelli Market © Visit Modena | Piazza Grande © Francesco Ricca Iacomino | Acetaia Comunale di Modena © Modenatur | Duomo di Modena © Travel Emilia Romagna | Palazzo dei Musei © SIG SG 510 – Wikipedia | Piazza Roma © Canva | Museo della Figurina © AGO Foundation | Pavarotti Municipal Theatre © Municipal Theatre Modena | MEF – Enzo Ferrari Museum © Ferrari