Parishes and abbeys of the Emilian Apennines not to be missed

The Emilian Apennines are rich in parish churches and abbeys that tell centuries of history, spirituality and art. These places of worship, often surrounded by breathtaking landscapes, are ideal destinations for cultural and nature itineraries. Here is a list of some of the most significant ones.

MODENA

Frassinoro Abbey

Located in the Modena Apennines, the Benedictine Abbey of Frassinoro was founded in 1071 by Beatrice of Lorraine, widow of Boniface of Canossa and mother of the more famous Matilda. On the old foundations of the abbey, which fell into ruin in the 15th century and of which unfortunately nothing remains (apart from a few architectural elements), stands today the Church of Santa Maria and San Claudio. Those who visit it find themselves catapulted into a true treasure chest of history and beauty. What catches the visitor’s eye: the 19th-century high altar, made of inlaid wood, the work of local craftsmen; the large organ located in the gallery above the entrance portal, made by famous local organ builders at the beginning of the 20th century; and the sculpted relief on a triangular slab depicting a man in the centre of two griffins (probably from the 11th century).

Parish Church of Renno

In Renno, a small hamlet of Pavullo nel Frignano, there is a splendid medieval parish church dedicated to St John the Baptist. Commissioned by the Montecuccoli family in their feudal territory, it was built in the first half of the 12th century. The simple, rustic Romanesque structure retains its charm despite having undergone considerable changes over time. It takes up the classic mountain parish church type with a three-nave floor plan and the altar facing east. Inside, it preserves several elements of historical and artistic interest, including: the precious 16th-century fresco depicting The Baptism of Christ; and the red Verona marble stoup, which, according to legend, was donated by Countess Anna Bigi for the baptism, in 1609, of her son Raimondo Montecuccoli.

Parish Church of Rocca Santa Maria

On the first slopes of the Modenese Apennines, in the village of Rocca Santa Maria (a hamlet of the municipality of Serramazzoni), stands the Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta, one of the most evocative and ancient churches in the Modenese mountains. It was erected between the 8th and 9th centuries but has undergone numerous restorations over the years. Entirely built in local sandstone, it is divided into three naves, divided by large and imposing round arches resting on four columns and semi-columns. Its capitals, adorned with intertwining plant motifs, stylised leaves and flowers, ribbons and scrolls, are considered among the most beautiful in northern Italy.

REGGIO EMILIA

Matildic Parish Church of Toano

The Parish Church of Toano also has its roots in the history of the Canossa family. The first official act in which it is mentioned, a diploma dated 14 October 980 issued by Emperor Otto II, testifies that it was originally included in the walls of the castle built by Boniface of Canossa, of which, however, no trace remains. What we see today, the Pieve di Santa Maria in Castello, is the result of various restoration works. According to scholar Alcide Spaggiari, it is ‘the perfect, complete and intact monument of Canossa art in the Apennines’. The simplicity of the architectural lines is striking, giving the building particular solemnity, with a typically Romanesque-Lombard beauty. The two central capitals and the two semi-capitals are of rare workmanship.

Marola Abbey

The Abbey of Marola (hamlet of Carpineti) is a true jewel of architecture surrounded by greenery. It was built in the second half of the 11th century through the munificence of Countess Matilda of Canossa, as a demonstration of her gratitude to the hermit Giovanni da Marola, who was rewarded for encouraging her to continue the fight against Emperor Henry IV. It has a gabled façade with a round, splayed portal characterised by slender half-columns surmounted by leafy capitals in Valestrina sandstone. Inside, the three naves are divided by columns and pillars supporting semicircular arches, while the roof has three wooden beams on all naves.

Oratory of Beleo

Situated on a wooded relief, the Oratory of Beleo (hamlet of Casina) is a graceful Romanesque building. Its origins date back to the 11th century. It was in fact named in 1970 among the properties belonging to Bonifacio di Canossa. The building, made of square stone, has a liturgically oriented hall plan. The façade is gabled and on the vault above the portal is a lunette with an epigraph bearing a sentence in honour of fallen Alpine soldiers. On the right side of the façade rises the bell gable. The interior, paved with sandstone slabs, preserves an ideal reconstruction of the ancient altar by sculptor Lanfranco Scorticati.

Parish Church of San Bartolomeo in Paullo

A precious example of Romanesque architecture, the Parish Church of San Bartolomeo in Paullo (a hamlet of the municipality of Casina) is one of the oldest parish churches in the Reggio Emilia Apennines. Dating back to the 9th century, over time it has undergone various restorations (the most recent due to a massive static consolidation carried out after the 2008 earthquake). It has a gabled façade characterised by an architraved portal, surmounted by an epigraph with the dedication to Saint Bartholomew, while the internal structure consists of three naves divided by six round columns of cut stone with carved capitals, Romanesque in character. The charm of this place is even greater if one also admires the sacristy and rectory.

Parish Church of Pianzo

In Pianzo, another hamlet of Casina, is the Pieve della Madonna dell’Assunta, which dominates the Tassobbio valley from above. Its foundation dates back to the Longobard era, although this is not confirmed by any historical source. Local tradition has it that it was built with the stones of the ancient temple of Venus that stood on Mount Venera. Externally, the parish church is characterised by a gabled façade made of squared stones, while the interior is in mountain baroque style with plaster friezes. Also inside, a beautiful Murano glass chandelier can be admired.

PARMA

Parish Church of Sasso

The Parish Church of Sasso (a hamlet of the municipality of Neviano degli Arduini), dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, is one of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque parish church in the Parma Apennines. Positioned on top of a hill (from which there is a breathtaking view), it was built towards the end of the 11th century at the behest of Matilde di Canossa to replace an older church located at the base of the mountain. The church, built entirely of roughly squared stone ashlars and covered with slate slabs, has a basilica-like structure with three naves. It is said that the parish church was the setting for the Legend of the 100 Churches, in which Matilda of Canossa herself was the protagonist.

Oratory of the Blessed Virgin of the Belt

Located above a natural terrace surrounded by lush woods (from which the human eye can sweep a 360° view), the small Oratory of the Blessed Virgin of the Belt is also known as the Oratory of the Assumption or the Oratory of the Assumption of Our Lady. It was built in simple Baroque style starting in 1630 at the behest of Pellegrino Coruzzi and the inhabitants of the small community of Iano (a hamlet of Calestano). The entire structure is clad in irregularly meshed sandstone blocks, with brick inserts around the windows. The interior is entirely frescoed with architectural and decorative motifs. On the right side rises the bell tower, also made of irregularly cut sandstone.

Main photo © Foto Manfredini – In Appennino Modenese | Photo gallery © Travel Emilia Romagna